Interior door problems are one of the most common handyman calls in Calgary — doors that stick in summer, fail to latch in winter, or gradually get worse over years. The correct fix depends on identifying the cause first, because the same symptom (sticking door) can come from three completely different mechanisms that require different responses.
Three Calgary-specific causes of sticking interior doors
1. Seasonal humidity movement
Calgary's winter indoor humidity drops to 15–25% RH, and summer rises to 40–55% RH when windows are open. Solid wood doors and wood framing expand in high humidity and contract in low humidity. A door that is perfectly adjusted in January (dry, small) may stick in July (humid, expanded). This is the most common cause in Calgary and it is important to confirm before making any permanent adjustment.
Identifying seasonal sticking: does the door open freely in winter but stick in summer? Does the sticking ease when you run a dehumidifier? If yes, the cause is seasonal and the fix is either accepting it, adding humidity control, or sealing the door edges with paint or polyurethane to slow moisture absorption.
2. Bearpaw clay foundation movement
The Bearpaw clay formation under many Calgary homes is an expansive clay that changes volume with moisture. Dry summer conditions cause clay shrinkage and settlement; wet spring conditions cause clay expansion and lifting. This seasonal movement transfers to the house framing, raking door frames out of square. Typical symptom: a door that sticks at the top corner opposite the hinges — the classic sign of a frame that is racking (one corner dropping, the other rising).
This is the critical distinction: Bearpaw clay movement is progressive if the moisture source is ongoing (leaking foundation, grading that directs water toward the home, aging weeping tile). It gets worse each year rather than cycling seasonally. If sticking is getting worse progressively or is accompanied by drywall cracks, a foundation or structural assessment is needed before adjusting doors.
3. Loose hinge screws
Hinge screws in older Calgary wood frames, particularly homes built with 2×4 framing, can loosen as the wood ages and loses grip. A door held by loose hinges sags — the latch side drops and binds against the jamb at the bottom. Tightening or replacing hinge screws with longer fasteners solves this quickly.
Diagnostic map: identifying the binding location
| Where door binds | Most likely cause | First fix to try |
|---|---|---|
| Top corner, latch side | Top hinge loose or door sagging; or frame racked (clay movement) | Tighten/replace top hinge screws with longer fasteners |
| Bottom corner, latch side | Bottom hinge too deep in mortise; or bottom of frame has risen | Shim behind bottom hinge leaf to push door bottom toward latch |
| Full latch-side edge | Seasonal humidity swelling of door or frame | Check if it only sticks in summer — if yes, seal door edges |
| Latch bolt won't enter strike (too high) | Door sagging; strike plate not aligned | File strike plate opening down; or shim/replace with longer top hinge screws |
| Hinge side binding (gap too tight) | Hinge mortise too deep; or hinge not fully open | Add cardboard shim behind hinge leaf to push door away from hinge side |
The correct sequence: try before you plane
Planing a door is irreversible and overkill for most Calgary door problems. Work through this sequence first:
- Tighten all hinge screws. Use a manual screwdriver for the final turn — power driver torque can strip the wood. If a screw spins without gripping, fill the hole: remove the screw, inject wood glue and toothpicks into the hole, let dry 24 hours, trim flush, re-drive the screw. For a more durable fix, replace with a 3-inch screw (76mm) that reaches past the jamb and into the rough framing.
- Check door squareness. With the door slightly open, check the gap around the perimeter. It should be even (2–3mm) all the way around. Uneven gaps indicate frame racking or door sag, not just a loose hinge.
- Mark the binding location. Close the door and slide a piece of paper around the edge — where it drags is where the door is contacting the frame too tightly. You can also rub chalk on the jamb in the binding area and close the door — the chalk transfers to the door edge at the contact point.
- Adjust hinges before planing.
- A shim of cardboard behind a hinge leaf moves the door 1–2mm away from that hinge — useful to move the latch side away from the jamb.
- Deepening a hinge mortise slightly with a chisel pushes the door toward that hinge side.
- Adjust or reposition the strike plate for latch problems before any other intervention. This is faster than replaning and adjusts the lock independently of the frame.
- Plane only as a last resort, and only in January/February when the door is at its minimum dimension from low humidity. Planing in summer on a swollen door removes too much wood and creates a rattle in winter.
Strike plate adjustment for a door that won't latch
When the door closes but the latch bolt does not enter the strike plate cleanly:
- Apply lipstick or chalk to the latch bolt face. Close the door gently without turning the knob. Open and look at the strike plate — the mark shows exactly where the bolt is contacting the plate.
- If the bolt is hitting above the hole: The door has sagged. Use a metal file to enlarge the strike plate opening upward, or replace hinge screws with longer fasteners to lift the door.
- If the bolt is hitting below the hole: Less common — the top of the frame has settled. File the strike plate opening downward.
- If the bolt is hitting the edge of the plate (not the hole):Loosen the strike plate mounting screws, shift the plate to align with the bolt mark, and re-secure. Fill old screw holes with toothpicks and wood glue before repositioning.
- If the bolt just barely misses (under 3mm off): The quickest fix is to remove the strike plate and file the edge of the mortise in the direction needed — no repositioning required.
When to call for a foundation assessment instead of adjusting the door
These are the warning signs that the door sticking is a structural symptom, not a maintenance issue:
- Multiple doors throughout the house sticking simultaneously, especially if they were not sticking before
- Diagonal cracks in drywall, especially from window or door corners at 45°, in the same area as the sticking doors
- Cracks in the basement wall, particularly horizontal cracks in poured concrete or stair-step cracks in block foundation
- A door frame that is visibly racked (use a level — both jambs should be plumb; a racked frame shows one jamb leaning)
- The problem is progressive over months — sticking that gets worse each season rather than cycling with humidity
In these cases, adjusting the door is a cosmetic patch on a structural issue. A structural engineer or foundation contractor assessment is the right next step.
Interior door adjustment costs in Calgary (2026)
| Service | Typical cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hinge tightening (screws or longer screws) | $50–$90 | Usually first visit fix; materials under $5 |
| Strike plate adjustment or repositioning | $60–$100 | File or move plate; re-set mortise |
| Full door adjustment (hinges + strike, multiple methods) | $80–$160 | Single door; complete adjustment visit |
| Door planing (remove door, plane, rehang, paint edge) | $150–$280 | Includes painting planed edge to seal against moisture |
| Multiple door adjustment (3–5 doors, one visit) | $200–$400 | Bulk savings on visit time |
Frequently asked questions
Why do interior doors stick in Calgary homes?
Three causes: (1) Seasonal humidity expansion — doors swell in summer (40–55% RH) and shrink in winter (15–25% RH). (2) Bearpaw clay foundation movement racking door frames out of square. (3) Loose hinge screws causing the door to sag. Identify the cause before fixing — seasonal sticking requires a different response than structural movement.
How do I tell if a sticking door means foundation problems?
Foundation movement: sticking that is progressive (gets worse each year), multiple doors sticking simultaneously, diagonal drywall cracks from window corners, visibly racked frames, or basement wall cracks. Seasonal sticking: the door frees itself in winter and returns in summer — cyclical, not progressive.
What are the steps to adjust a door hinge?
Tighten all hinge screws first (replace stripped holes with toothpick-and-glue repair; replace short screws with 3-inch fasteners into framing). If still binding: shim behind a hinge leaf with cardboard to push the door toward the latch side; deepen a mortise to push the door the other way. Try hinges before planing.
When should I plane a door vs. adjusting hinges?
Plane only after hinge and strike plate adjustments fail, and only in January/February (driest month — door is smallest). Planing in summer on a humidity-swollen door removes too much wood, creating a gap in winter. Mark the binding location with chalk before planing; remove the minimum amount.
How do I fix a door that will not latch in Calgary?
Apply lipstick to the latch bolt, close gently, and check where the bolt contacts the strike plate. File the strike plate opening in the direction the bolt misses, or reposition the plate. If the door has sagged (bolt hits top edge of hole), replace top hinge screws with 3-inch fasteners into the framing to lift the door.
Sticking or mis-latching interior door in Calgary?
Steve adjusts hinges, repositions strike plates, planes doors when necessary, and checks for structural red flags — all in a single visit for most Calgary door problems.
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